Nobody knows who invented the button.
The oldest ones we know of come from the Indus Valley. They were not made to close clothes. They were ornaments. Seashell buttons were used for decoration by about 2000 BC (Button, Wikipedia).
Then someone invented the buttonhole, in 13th-century Germany, and the button finally had a job (Button, Wikipedia).
It has kept that job ever since. And if you make clothes for your own brand, it is a job you should think about more than one line in your tech pack.
The same sweater, with different buttons
Designer Isaac Mizrahi tells a short story about this in a TED-Ed talk. When he was a kid, his mother knitted him a sweater. He did not like it. Then he found some buttons and sewed them on. The moment the buttons were on, he loved it.
Same sweater. Different buttons.
That is the point of this post. A button is small, but people see it and touch it every time they wear the garment.
Why buttons are still here
Mizrahi’s answer is simple: they work. A button goes through the buttonhole and settles into place. The design has hardly changed since the Middle Ages. And if a button falls off, you sew it back on.
Zips break, he says. Hook-and-loop tape is noisy and wears out. That is one designer’s view, and zips and snaps are the right choice for many garments. But for shirts, polos, cardigans and workwear, the button is hard to beat.
It is not only about the button
Mizrahi also says the buttonhole is almost more important than the button. He is right.
A perfect button on a bad buttonhole still feels wrong. The hole depends on the size and the thickness of the button. A thick or domed button may need a different hole than a flat one of the same width (Threads Magazine, 2018). Thick fabric needs more room too. Your pattern maker can give you the right figure for your fabric. Then test it on a sample.
What you actually choose
Every button is five decisions.
| Choice | Options | What to know |
|---|---|---|
| Attachment | Flat with 2 or 4 holes, shank, snap, rivet | Flat buttons are sewn on by machine. Shank buttons have a loop on the back. Snaps and rivets suit jackets and denim (Fibre2Fashion). |
| Material | Plastic (such as polyester), natural (shell, wood, horn, corozo), metal (brass, zinc alloy, steel) | Plastic is the most common. Metal is typical for jackets and jeans (Fibre2Fashion). |
| Size | Lignes (L) or millimetres | 40 lignes equal 1 inch. A men’s shirt button is often about 16 L (10.16 mm). A suit jacket button is often about 32 L (20.32 mm) (Button, Wikipedia). |
| Colour and finish | Matte, glossy, dyed, plated | Check it next to the real fabric, not on a screen. |
| Branding | Plain, or with a logo | A logo on a button is a small, lasting brand detail. Ask early if it is possible and at what quantity. |
Can’t decide? Mizrahi has an answer for that too: if you cannot pick a button, let someone else help you. Ask your pattern maker or your factory. Choose two or three, and compare them on the real fabric.
Why this is worth your time
People judge clothes fast. We wrote about it in people decide who you are before you say a single word. A light plastic button on a loose thread can make a good shirt look unfinished. A solid, well-matched button can make the same shirt look carefully made.
This is our reasoning. We did not find a study that tests buttons on their own. But it follows from how first impressions work.
Before you order, ask these questions
- Can the factory get the button you want? Stock buttons are usually quick. Custom colours or logos may take longer and may have their own minimum order.
- Does the colour match the fabric? Fabric and buttons can differ from batch to batch. Check a sample with both.
- Does it survive the wash? Ask about washing and care, especially for painted, plated or natural buttons.
- How is it sewn on? Thread type, colour and stitch count matter as much as the button.
- Do you want a spare? One extra button sewn inside is a good touch.
- Is it for children? Small parts on children’s clothing have extra safety rules. Check the rules where you sell.
Put it in the tech pack
Do not write “buttons: white”. Write this:
- Type (flat, shank, snap, rivet) and number of holes
- Material and finish
- Size in lignes and millimetres
- Colour reference, with a physical swatch if possible
- Number of buttons and exact positions
- Buttonhole type and length
- Thread colour and type
- Spare button: yes or no
- Logo, if any
Here is the full checklist: what a tech pack should include.
Quick Questions
Who invented the button? Nobody knows. The earliest known buttons come from the Indus Valley and were used as ornaments. The buttonhole for fastening clothes appeared much later, in 13th-century Germany (Button, Wikipedia).
What is a ligne in button sizing? A ligne is a unit for measuring buttons. One ligne equals 1/40 of an inch, or about 0.635 mm (Threads Magazine, 2018).
What button size is common on a men’s shirt? About 16 lignes, which is about 10 mm. Suit jacket buttons are usually larger, about 32 lignes (Button, Wikipedia).
What is the difference between a flat button and a shank button? A flat button has holes, usually two or four, and is sewn on through them. A shank button has a raised loop on the back and is sewn on through the loop (Button, Wikipedia).
Can I put my logo on a button? Often yes, but it depends on the supplier. Custom buttons may need extra lead time and may have their own minimum quantity, so ask early.
Sources
- TED-Ed. Isaac Mizrahi on the Button. “Small Thing, Big Idea” series.
- Button. Wikipedia. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Button
- Threads Magazine (2018). Making sense of button sizing. https://www.threadsmagazine.com/2018/08/22/making-sense-button-sizing
- Fibre2Fashion. A guide to classify garment buttons. https://fibre2fashion.com/industry-article/8038/a-guide-to-classify-garment-buttons
Note
History and sizing details come from general reference sources and may differ between them. Button sizes, materials and minimum quantities vary by supplier, so confirm details with your factory. For children’s clothing, check the safety rules of the country where you sell.
